Different lift technologies deliver different results with different trade-offs. Spacer lifts (also called bracket lifts) use spacers that go between your A-arms and frame or between your shocks and mounting points, physically raising your chassis higher. They're the most affordable lift option ($200-500 typically) and relatively straightforward to install.
Arched or forward-offset A-arms replace your stock A-arms with aftermarket arms that have built-in lift (the arms are arched to position the wheel lower relative to the chassis) and often include forward offset that pushes wheels outward to accommodate larger tires without rubbing.
Portal gear lifts are the ultimate solution, replacing your wheel hubs with gearboxes that move the axle output higher while the wheel mounts lower. This creates massive lift (6-10+ inches possible) without changing suspension geometry at all. Your suspension operates exactly as designed, just positioned higher relative to the ground. Portal lifts let you run 35-40+ inch tires and create ground clearance that makes technical terrain feel easy.
Here's what separates good lift installations from ones that create problems: understanding how lift affects geometry throughout your suspension and drivetrain. CV axle angles increase as you lift. Your axles have to operate at steeper angles to connect your transmission to wheels that are now further away. Stock CV joints have angle limits (typically around 20-22 degrees maximum) before they bind, overheat, and fail prematurely. Small lifts (1-2 inches) usually stay within acceptable angles. Larger lifts (3+ inches) often require upgraded high-angle CV axles or arched A-arms that correct geometry.
Suspension geometry changes affect handling. Spacer lifts alter your roll center height, camber curves, and bump steer characteristics. In plain English: your machine might handle differently after lifting, potentially feeling less stable or developing a weird steering feel during suspension compression. Quality lift kits are engineered to minimize these changes, but physics is physics and lifting changes things. Arched A-arms designed for lifted machines correct some of these geometry issues by maintaining more factory-like suspension angles despite the lift.
Many builders use forward-offset A-arms and wheel spacers together with lifts to maintain stable handling despite the height increase.
Choosing lift height isn't about "more is better"—it's about matching lift to your actual needs without creating problems. For example, if you’re running with 30 or 31-inch tires, you will generally not need any lift with stock fenders. At most, maybe an inch or two with trimming will do the trick.
For 36+ inch tires, on the other hand, portal gear lifts become necessary. Stock suspension components simply can't accommodate these sizes without portal gears creating the clearance. You're also well into "purpose-built machine" territory, where supporting modifications (axles, brakes, engine/clutch upgrades) become extensive.
Your riding style matters too. Rock crawlers benefit from maximum clearance and approach/departure angles that lifts provide. Trail riders might find lifts hurt more than they help by raising the center of gravity and making machines tippy in off-camber sections. Desert runners care more about suspension travel than static lift height. Match your lift to what you actually do rather than lifting because everyone else is.
Will lifting my UTV void the warranty?
Almost certainly yes for drivetrain and suspension components. Manufacturers consider lifts modifications that alter how components operate and create stresses they didn't design for. They'll likely deny warranty claims for axles, transmissions, differentials, suspension parts, and anything else they can reasonably connect to your lift. Some dealers are more lenient than others, and completely unrelated claims (like seat issues) shouldn't be affected, but expect suspension/drivetrain warranty coverage to be gone once you lift. Many riders wait until the warranty expires or simply accept this trade-off for the capability gains lifts provide.
What else will I need to upgrade?
That depends on how much lift, the type of kit, and a couple of other factors. For example, portal gear lifts require comprehensive supporting mods, including axles rated for portal applications, clutching for torque boosting, and possibly, steering mods.
Are these UTV Lift Kits reasonably easy to DIY?
“Easy” may not be the operative word, but depending on the lift, you can generally install these with standard tools and know-how. Arched A-arm installations are more involved since you're replacing complete suspension components, but still manageable for experienced DIYers. If you’re doing a portal gear lift, we do recommend professional installation.