Spot pattern lights (also called pencil beam or driving lights) focus light into a narrow, long-range beam that reaches 500-1000+ feet ahead. They're what you want for high-speed desert running or long, straight trails where you need to see far ahead.
Flood pattern lights (also called spread beam or work lights) distribute light widely across a short-to-medium distance, maybe 100-300 feet ahead, but covering 180+ degrees horizontally. They're perfect for low-speed technical riding where you need to see the entire trail width as well as camp lighting.
Combination pattern lights (also called combo beams) split the difference, typically using spot LEDs in the center with flood LEDs on the edges, creating both distance and width. For most trail riding, combo patterns work best because you get usable distance without sacrificing peripheral coverage.
Roof-mounted light bars can be large (30-50 inches) since you have the real estate and mounting strength. These provide excellent distance and coverage but position the light high, which can create glare in dusty or foggy conditions.
Bumper or grille-mounted light bars are generally a bit more compact, which makes sense considering where they’re mounted. The limitation is that they’re more exposed to rock impacts and branch strikes.
A combined approach works best if you’re trying to get as much coverage as possible. Many riders run a 30-40 inch combo bar on the roof for primary lighting, supplemented by small pod lights low on the bumper for close-range fill. Others add rear-facing work lights for backing up or camp lighting. Think about when and how you actually ride. Night trail riding needs different lighting than predawn work runs or camp setup.
LED lighting may be more efficient compared to those older halogen lights of yesteryear (remember the blindness these things would cause?), but they’re still no “sipper” when it comes to consuming power. High-output alternator upgrades (90+ amps) solve this for riders with extensive electrical loads.
Proper wiring matters too. LED lights should be wired through relays that handle the current load rather than running directly through switches. This protects your switches and provides better voltage to the lights for maximum brightness. Fuse all circuits appropriately. Don't just tap into existing circuits or you risk overloading wiring and creating fire hazards.
Battery upgrades or dual battery systems provide reserve capacity for brief high-draw situations (like running lights while using a winch), but they don't solve sustained over-draw where you're pulling more amps than your alternator produces. If you're adding significant lighting plus other electrical accessories, budget for electrical system upgrades. The money you save buying cheap lights won't matter when your inadequate wiring creates electrical fires.
It doesn’t matter how awesome that light is; it’s not going to do you much good if it just falls off your machine or conks out after a bit of water exposure. You need super solid mounting setups, including heavy-duty brackets and vibration-dampening at the very least, to make this precious hardware last.
Weatherproofing is an especially important thing to watch out for when shopping for side-by-side lighting setups. “IP67” and “IP68” are what you want to look for rather than generic “water-resistant” claims. The same goes for sealed housings and breather vents that keep pressure stable while keeping water out. Quality has a telltale look to it; you just have to know what to look for!
What’s a good lumen level for trail riding at night?
To be honest, lumen ratings can be tricky because they don’t measure the whole picture. They measure raw output, but they don’t take the beam pattern into account. If you’re going at a good clip, you’ll want eight thousand lumens or more in most cases.
Will UTV lights drain my battery?
Engine off? Yes (and quickly). Engine on and alternator charging? You’re good to go.
Can I just feed into my headlight wiring to run aftermarket lights?
No, and doing this causes several problems. Stock headlight circuits are fused for specific current loads. Adding high-draw LED lights overloads the circuit.