A real long travel kit simply ups your suspension’s wheel travel, usually by around two to six inches. How it's accomplished varies by kit design. Some use longer A-arms with revised geometry, moving your wheels further from the chassis and allowing more articulation. Others reposition shock mounting points to increase shock stroke. Complete systems do both—longer arms, repositioned shocks, revised geometry throughout. The key is that everything has to work together. Just installing longer shocks without addressing geometry creates handling problems and can actually make things worse.
The performance difference is dramatic for the right applications. Long travel transforms desert racing and high-speed rough terrain. You can carry way more speed through sections that would beat stock suspension senseless. Long travel really shines when suspension is working hard at the limits of its travel.
Understanding scope helps you spend money where it matters most for your riding. Complete long travel kits include everything needed for front and rear suspension transformation: A-arms, shocks, mounting brackets, geometry correction components, and all hardware. These deliver maximum benefit but cost serious money ($3000-8000+, depending on system). They're what you need for competition use or if you're building a dedicated high-performance machine.
Front-only long travel makes sense for certain applications and budgets. You can always add rear long travel later if the budget allows. Rear-only upgrades are less common since front suspension typically needs help first, but they work for specific scenarios like improving traction in whoops or loading situations.
Progressive upgrades let you build your long travel system over time. Start with longer A-arms to improve geometry and clearance, add better shocks later when budget allows, then potentially add extended trailing arms or radius rods.
Having long travel means nothing if your shocks can't control it properly, even if it gives you the stroke length you need.
Proper valving for long travel suspension is different than stock. You need damping that can control faster wheel speeds and bigger impacts without being harsh over small bumps. Many long travel kit manufacturers include shocks valved appropriately for the kit, but custom valving for your specific weight and riding style delivers optimal results.
Spring rates need matching to your machine's weight, rider weight, and intended use. Too soft and you'll use all your travel on every bump. Too stiff and you're not using the travel you paid for.
Will long travel kits threaten my warranty coverage?
Almost certainly yes for suspension, steering, and drivetrain components. fundamentally changes how your suspension operates and creates stresses manufacturers didn't design for. Dealers will likely deny warranty coverage for axles, A-arms, shocks, steering components, frames, and anything they can reasonably connect to your modifications. Some manufacturers are more aggressive than others about this. If warranty is important, wait until it expires before installing long travel. Completely unrelated claims (seat issues, electrical problems) shouldn't be affected, but expect the suspension-related warranty to be gone.
Is a long travel kit something I can install on my own?
If you’re working with a bolt-on kit that makes little to no changes in geometry, it will be much easier for you. On the other end of the spectrum, you may need professional help. Improper installation can create dangerous handling issues or break expensive components.
How much difference will long travel actually make for my type of riding?
The benefit varies dramatically by riding style. For high-speed desert running or racing through whoops, long travel is transformative—you can carry 20-30% more speed through rough sections comfortably. If your current suspension rarely uses full travel, you probably don't need long travel and should focus upgrades elsewhere.