It may not seem like that consequential an issue at first, but actually, the way your mirrors attach to your machine affects just about every part of your experience.
For example, clamp-on mirrors that use bolts or special clamps to wrap around your roll cage tubes are super versatile. They allow you to install without drilling and can generally be moved with little to no hassle. The one potential downside to these is that they are slightly more vulnerable to rattling out of position, but that’s less of an issue when you’re working with high-quality brands.
On the other end of the spectrum, bolt-on mirrors are secured right onto your door frame, hinges, or other pre-established mounting points on your machine. They give you a more uniform look and tend to stay put really well, although you need to be careful when confirming fitment because most of the bolt-on side-by-side mirrors are model-specific.
Trees, brush, and trail obstacles have a nasty habit of grabbing mirrors and trying to rip them off your machine. Breakaway or folding mirrors address this by allowing the mirror to fold back or pivot when struck, rather than shattering or tearing the mounting hardware out. They save you from replacing broken mirrors constantly and prevent the more serious problem of bent or damaged roll cage tubes from mirrors that don't release.
Single-axis breakaway mirrors fold back in one direction (usually backward). They work well for avoiding obstacles you see coming and can brace for, though impacts from unexpected angles might still cause damage. Dual-axis breakaway mirrors pivot in multiple directions, handling impacts from any angle by folding rather than breaking. They're more expensive but provide better protection and longer life in tight trail conditions where mirror contact is frequent.
Bigger mirrors provide better visibility but create more drag, catch more branches, and add weight. Mirror glass size ranges from compact 4-5 inch mirrors (barely adequate, mostly for checking boxes on street-legal requirements) to 7-8+ inch mirrors that actually provide useful visibility. Most riders find 5-6 inch mirrors hit the sweet spot: they’re large enough to see clearly without excessive bulk. Convex mirrors curve outward slightly, providing a wider field of view than flat mirrors but with slight image distortion. They're popular for reducing blind spots.
It’s also important to note that vibration-dampening mirrors are a big deal if you find yourself struggling to check blurry mirrors on bumpier rides. Cheap mirrors rigidly mounted to vibrating roll bars create images so blurry they're basically useless at speed. If you can't actually see clearly in your mirrors while riding, they're decorative rather than functional.
Do I have to get side-by-side mirrors if I’m going street legal?
It all depends on your state. Always check your regs!
What’s with all the vibration?
It’s either your mirror’s design or loose mounting hardware. If your hardware’s good to go, it’s time for an upgrade!
Do I have to stop my machine to properly adjust my mirrors?
Some UTV mirrors may have quick-adjust systems, but a lot of them do require you to stop because of the way they’re mounted.