Plastic, when done right, is by no means a dirty word in the world of aftermarket UTV roofs. In fact, high-quality polymers like polyethylene or ABS can give you a surprising amount of protection while saving a ton of weight AND costing less. Plus, plastic UTV roofs are naturally resistant to corrosion and will most definitely not dent easily. The one major catch here, however, is that they do tend to be brittle and crack after a few years in the sun.
Aluminum roofs are still very light, but tend to have greater durability than plastic. They also resist corrosion, won’t rust, and can take harder impacts while still weighing in at considerably less than steel.
Finally, if you want tank-quality protection and you don’t mind the extra weight, there simply is no getting around the protective power of steel. Steel UTV roofs are very rigid, incredibly durable, and simply put, just last forever while taking all the hits without issue.
Short answer? That’s a yes. One-piecers and two-piecers are both viable options in different contexts, so understanding the pros and cons of each gives you a major advantage when finding the right fit for you. Starting off with one-piece roofs, these tend to be more effective in terms of weather sealing, as there are fewer seams or joints through which the outside can come in (that’s always fun). For this same reason, they’re also easier to install in most cases. The main drawback? They can’t fold up, making these bulkier options trickier to transport.
Two-piece roofs, as the name implies, split into sections that can bolt together when installed. They are easier to ship and store, but as mentioned, that seam does offer a potential leak point. Still, a high-quality multi-piece roof will come with overlap and sealing to prevent leaks.
How roofs attach affects security and ease of installation. Roll cage clamp mounting uses clamps or brackets that attach to roll cage tubes, working across various machines with minimal drilling. They're relatively universal and reposition if initial placement isn't perfect. The catch is they can work loose from vibration—proper tightening and periodic checking prevent problems. Quick-release mounting systems use cam-lock clamps or similar mechanisms, allowing roof removal in minutes without tools, convenient for machines used in varying conditions, where sometimes you want a roof, sometimes not.
Bolt-on mounting to specific frame or cage points provides maximum security but typically requires drilling and is model-specific. Integrated mounting in some aftermarket roll cages includes roof mounting provisions designed into the cage structure. This is the cleanest, strongest mounting method, but it only works with compatible cages. Roof compatibility with doors and windshields matters. Some roofs require specific door heights or windshield types. Verify your existing doors and windshield work with your chosen roof, or plan to upgrade those components simultaneously.
Sealing and weatherproofing quality varies tremendously. Premium roofs include proper gaskets, weather stripping, and sealing systems, preventing water infiltration at mounting points. Budget roofs might require adding weatherstripping or accepting some water intrusion during heavy rain.
Will adding a roof significantly reduce airflow and make my UTV hotter in summer?
Yes, it sure can, but the design influences this a lot. One-piecers tend to be more unforgiving in this regard, where a two-piece roof may allow for more venting.
Are UTV roofs easy enough to install without pro help?
Many are if you have basic tools and know-how, but some are more involved.
Do hard roofs increase rollover protection, or are they just for weather?
Hard roofs provide minimal rollover protection compared to actual roll cage structures.