Shock design fundamentally affects performance and heat management. Internal Floating Piston (IFP) shocks (also called monotube shocks) use a single tube with a floating piston separating oil from nitrogen gas. They're relatively compact, provide good performance, and cost less than reservoir designs. The limitation is heat dissipation. During sustained hard use, oil temperature rises, reducing damping effectiveness (fade). They work well for recreational riding or racing with breaks, but less well for extended high-speed desert racing or continuous aggressive riding.
Piggyback reservoir shocks add an external reservoir connected directly to the shock body, increasing total oil and gas volume. More fluid volume provides better heat capacity (takes longer to overheat), and the external reservoir dissipates heat more effectively than being buried inside the shock body. Piggyback designs are more compact than remote reservoir shocks (the reservoir is attached to the shock body) but still provide significant fade resistance improvement over IFP designs. They're the sweet spot for most serious riders, delivering better performance than IFP without the complexity of remote reservoirs.
Remote reservoir shocks are unique in that they keep the reservoir completely separated. This allows you to mount the reservoir where it can get the most cooling airflow. Total fluid volume is maximized, providing the best heat management. They're standard in serious racing but add complexity (hose routing), potential failure points (hose can be damaged), and cost. For extreme use or competition, they're worth it. For recreational riding, piggyback designs usually suffice.
When you’re working with truly premium-level UTV shocks, they should be adjustable to different load levels and riding styles. Compression damping allows you to adjust how quickly the shock compresses when subjected to a, well, shock. The greater the damping, the greater the resistance to compression forces. If you want your shock to compress more easily, which is ideal for smooth riding over smaller bumps, then you can keep your compression pretty low and vice versa.
Single-adjustment UTV shocks are generally going to give you control over both the compression and rebound. This is a simpler but less precise approach than making each adjustment individually. Alternatively, dual-adjustment shocks will provide a greater tuning range and precision.
Why, if it isn’t clear by now, is adjustment such a big deal? Well, we’ll answer a question with a question: Is every riding experience the same for you? Do you always go over the same terrain, with the same amount of cargo and/or passengers? That’s why: because you need hardware that adapts to your everyday riding style.
If you’ve never done it before, revalving is when you take your existing shocks apart and swap out those internal valving shims with custom replacements. You will also replace any worn seals and bushings as indicated. Quality revalve services cost $150-300 per shock, but transform performance. Properly valved stock shocks often outperform cheap aftermarket shocks. This makes economic sense if your shock bodies are in good condition (no dents, bent shafts, or damaged mounts).
Complete shock replacement with premium aftermarket shocks provides upgraded features that stock shocks can't match, including reservoir designs, adjustability, better materials, and construction. You can also go with a combination approach, where you revalve your stock shocks early on, then upgrade later. This spreads costs while maintaining good suspension performance throughout.
New shocks vs revalving: how can I know?
Signs worn shocks need replacement: visible oil leaking, shock bodies hot to touch after moderate riding (indicating internal wear), or play in bushings or mounts. Signs shocks just need revalving: they work, but the ride is too harsh/soft, bottoming is excessive, or handling feels vague.
Can I upgrade springs only?
If your shocks are in good condition, yes.
What’s the ideal interval for servicing or rebuilding UTV shocks?
This depends heavily on your riding style and conditions. More aggressive riders may need to rebuild annually or every fifty to seventy-five hours of riding time, while recreational riders can just about double that.