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UTV & Side-by-Side Wheels
A wheel looks like the simple half of a tire-and-wheel package. It is not. The wheel is what carries every impact your tire takes, holds the bead when you air down, sets your stance and your clearance, and either survives the rock garden or folds around it. Stock UTV wheels are built to a price and a middle-of-the-road stance, which is why the first hard hit bends one and why serious riders upgrade early. The right aftermarket wheel drops weight your suspension has to fight, takes hits that would crack a factory rim, locks your bead so you can run the low pressure that actually grips, and — yes — makes the machine look the way it should. Side By Side Source stocks that wheel deep, from a $60 steel workhorse to a race-proven beadlock.
We carry UTV and side-by-side wheels in every construction and style: lightweight cast and sport wheels, race-grade beadlocks, and heavy steel work wheels, across bolt patterns from 4/110 to 4/156 and diameters from 12 all the way to 24 inches. The brands serious riders ask for are all here, led by Fuel Off-Road, MSA, Method Race Wheels, Pro Armor and ITP. Fitment on a wheel is unforgiving — the bolt pattern and offset have to be exactly right — so pick your year, make and model in the vehicle selector at the top of the page and the catalog filters to wheels that bolt on. Not sure? Call (414) 219-0509, text 920-644-5280, or hit the live chat, and a real UTV person will confirm the fit before you spend a dollar.
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Buyer's Guide: How to Choose UTV Wheels
Wheels trip people up because two totally separate decisions get mixed together — how the wheel is built and whether it fits your machine. Get both right and you have a wheel that survives your riding and bolts straight on. This guide walks them in order: construction, beadlock or not, then the fitment trio that actually decides whether a wheel will work — bolt pattern, offset and size. Every section names real wheels you can shop on this page.
1. Wheel Construction: Steel vs. Cast vs. Flow-Formed vs. Forged
How a wheel is made sets its strength, its weight and its price. There are four ways UTV wheels are built, and they run from heavy-and-cheap to light-and-bombproof. Note this is a separate question from beadlock — you can get most of these constructions with or without a beadlock ring.
| Construction | How it's made | Strength | Weight | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steel | Stamped and welded steel | Very tough, bends before it cracks, easy to hammer back | Heaviest | Work machines, plow rigs, budget builds — the cheapest way to a wheel that won't crack |
| Cast aluminum | Molten aluminum poured into a mold | Good — the everyday standard; premium alloys resist cracking | Much lighter than steel | Most riders — the mainstream aftermarket wheel, light and corrosion-proof at a fair price |
| Flow-formed | Cast center, then the barrel is spun and stretched under pressure | Stronger than cast at less weight — a real step up | Lighter than cast | Performance riders who want less weight without forged prices |
| Forged | Pressed from a solid aluminum billet under huge force | Strongest made — race-grade | Lightest | Racing and hard desert use where every ounce and every impact counts |
The plain call: a quality cast aluminum wheel is the right answer for the large majority of riders — light, tough enough, corrosion-proof and affordable. Choose steel when the machine works for a living and you want maximum toughness for the least money. Step to flow-formed or forged when you race or run hard desert and the weight savings and impact strength earn their premium.
2. Beadlock vs. Non-Beadlock Wheels
This is the wheel question riders ask about most, and it is simpler than it sounds. A standard wheel holds the tire bead with air pressure alone. A beadlock wheel adds a bolt-on ring that physically clamps the outer bead to the wheel, so the tire cannot slip or unseat — even at very low pressure or under a hard sideways hit. That is the whole point: beadlocks let you air down to the single-digit pressures that grip in rock and mud without rolling a tire off the rim.
| Non-Beadlock (standard) | Beadlock | |
|---|---|---|
| How the bead holds | Air pressure seats the bead | A bolt-on ring clamps the bead mechanically |
| Air-down ability | Limited — too low and the bead unseats | Run single-digit psi with no fear of separation |
| Best for | Trail, work, everyday riding, most owners | Rock crawling, mud, racing, anyone airing down for grip |
| Weight | Lighter | Heavier (the ring and bolts add mass) |
| Maintenance | Mount and forget | Ring bolts must be torqued and re-checked (see below) |
| Price | Lower | Higher |
| Shop these | ITP SS212, Moose 399X, Pro Armor Knight | Fuel Anza Beadlock, Method 401, Tusk Nebo, DragonFire SB-3 |
True beadlock vs. simulated beadlock
Watch this one at checkout. A true (functional) beadlock has a real bolt-on ring that clamps the bead — it works. A simulated beadlock has a cosmetic ring that gives the look without clamping anything; it is a styling choice, not a low-pressure tool. If you crawl, race or mud at low psi, buy a true beadlock. If you just want the aggressive look and ride normal pressures, a simulated beadlock saves money and weight. The listing will say which — and if it is unclear, ask us.
Do you actually need beadlocks?
If you run very low pressure regularly — rock crawlers and hard mud riders, this is you — the answer is yes. Racers run them too, because a beadlock resists bead separation from hard impacts at any pressure. For everyday trail and work riding at normal pressure, a good standard wheel is all you need and it rides lighter.
Beadlock maintenance, the honest version: beadlock ring bolts must be torqued to spec, in a star pattern, and re-checked — before the first ride, again after the first ride (they settle), then every three to five rides or any time you notice air loss. Keep the ring and bolts clean, because packed mud and debris keep the ring from clamping evenly. Skip this and you get slow leaks or a spun tire. It is not hard, but it is not optional.
3. Bolt Pattern: The Number That Must Match
If the bolt pattern is wrong, the wheel does not go on — full stop. A UTV bolt pattern is written as number of lugs / diameter of the bolt circle in millimeters, so 4/156 means four lugs on a 156 mm circle. Here are the common UTV patterns and the machines that generally use them. Patterns vary by year and model, so treat this as a starting point and confirm with the vehicle selector before you buy.
| Bolt pattern | Commonly found on |
|---|---|
| 4/156 | Most Polaris — RZR, Ranger full-size, General (the most common UTV pattern by far) |
| 4/137 | Can-Am (Maverick, Commander, Defender), many Kawasaki (Teryx, KRX) and CFMoto |
| 4/136 | Some older Can-Am and Kawasaki (very close to 4/137 — confirm before mixing) |
| 4/110 | Many Honda (Pioneer), Yamaha, Kubota and utility ATVs |
| 4/115 | Some Yamaha and mid-size utility machines |
| 5/4.5 (5/114.3) | Select machines and adapter setups — always confirm |
Hub-centric vs. lug-centric: a hub-centric wheel is centered by the hub bore itself, which is the more precise, vibration-free fit. A lug-centric wheel is centered by the lug nuts, which works fine but needs care at install to sit true. Given the choice, hub-centric is the smoother setup. Running a different bolt pattern than your machine? A wheel adapter can convert it (a common Can-Am-to-Polaris swap, for example) — ask us and we will spec the right one. Link wheel adapters/spacers category if SXSS carries it.
4. Wheel Offset & Backspacing: The Part Everyone Gets Confused
This is the number that decides how far your wheels sit in or out, whether your tires rub, and how hard your bearings work — and almost nobody explains it clearly. Here is the plain version. Offset is where the wheel's mounting face sits relative to its centerline, in millimeters. Backspacing is the same idea told a different way — the distance from the mounting face to the inner lip, often written as two numbers like 4+3 (4 inches of front spacing, 3 inches of back).
| Offset | Where the wheel sits | Effect | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Positive offset | Mounting face toward the street side; wheel tucks IN | Narrower stance, tire tucked under the machine, factory-style | Least added stress; least aggressive stance and flotation |
| Zero offset | Mounting face on the centerline | Balanced — a middle-ground stance | A safe default when unsure |
| Negative offset | Mounting face toward the brake side; wheel pushes OUT | Wider stance, more stability and flotation, aggressive look | More leverage on bearings and axles; can rub fenders |
| Example | Front + back (inches) | Stance |
|---|---|---|
| 5+2 | 5" front, 2" back | Pushes the wheel outward — wider, aggressive |
| 4+3 | 4" front, 3" back | Middle-ground stance |
| 3.5+3.5 | Even front and back | Tucked-in, factory-style stance |
Why it matters on the trail: a wider stance (more negative offset / more front backspacing like 5+2) adds stability and lets bigger tires clear the body, but it puts more leverage on your wheel bearings and axles and can rub at full lock. A tucked stance (3.5+3.5) is easier on the driveline and keeps the machine narrow for tight trails and trailering. Match offset to your build: running wide tires or a lift usually wants a wider offset, while a stock machine on tight trails is happy tucked in. Not sure what your machine can take? The vehicle selector filters to offsets that fit, or text us your setup and we will spec it.
5. Wheel Size: Diameter & Width
Wheel size is written as diameter × width, both in inches — a 15x7 is 15 inches across and 7 inches wide. Two rules make sizing easy:
- Diameter must match your tire's rim size. A 14-inch tire mounts to a 14-inch wheel, period. Most UTVs run 12, 14 or 15-inch wheels from the factory; going to a larger diameter (a 15" over a 14") is a common upgrade to fit taller, more aggressive tires and show more wheel.
- Width should suit the tire. Each tire lists a recommended wheel-width range. A wider wheel plants the tire flatter for stability and a more aggressive look; a narrower wheel lets the tire crown for better mud-cutting and a softer ride. Stay in the tire's recommended range and you are safe.
Going bigger in diameter usually means bigger tires too, which brings the same clearance, gearing and clutch considerations covered on our UTV tires page — plan the wheel and tire together and we will help you spec the pair.
6. Finishes: Looks That Also Affect Upkeep
Finish is styling, but it also changes how much cleaning you sign up for. Matte or satin black (especially powder-coated) is the popular pick because it hides dirt and trail scratches and takes abuse well. Machined faces — bright CNC-cut aluminum against a dark background — look premium but want more upkeep to keep the bare metal from spotting or corroding. Bronze, gunmetal and custom colors let you match or contrast your machine and have become the go-to for a built look. Chrome and full-polish shine hardest but demand constant care against water spots and corrosion, which is why they have largely fallen out of favor for real off-road use. For a machine that actually rides, matte black or a powder-coated color is the low-maintenance, best-looking-longest choice.
Top 5 UTV Wheel Brands
We stock the wheels we would run ourselves, and these five lead our catalog — each owning a different corner of the market, from race beadlocks to steel workhorses.
Fuel Off-Road — the premium name
Fuel is one of the biggest names in off-road wheels for a reason: aggressive, unmistakable designs backed by real construction and broad UTV fitment. The Anza, Maverick and Hardline beadlocks are catalog staples, and the Vector and Lethal sets bring the Fuel look in lighter non-beadlock form. If you want a wheel that makes the machine look built and holds up when you use it, Fuel is the default. /brands/fuel-off-road confirmed live.
MSA (Motosport Alloys) — the sport-wheel specialist
MSA lives in the sweet spot between value and premium, with a deep line of sport wheels that fit almost anything. The M41 Boxer, M38 Brute and M26 Vibe are proven, good-looking wheels at a mid-tier price, in beadlock and standard versions. MSA is where a huge share of riders land when they want a real upgrade without a race-wheel invoice. Verify /brands/msa slug.
Method Race Wheels — the race standard
When the terrain gets serious, Method is the name the desert-race world trusts. The 401 Beadlock is a benchmark race wheel — engineered for strength and real bead clamping under punishment, not just looks. If you race, run hard desert, or simply want the toughest bolt-on beadlock made, this is the brand. /brands/method-race-wheels confirmed live.
Pro Armor — the Polaris performance pick
Pro Armor builds sharp, sport-focused wheels with especially strong Polaris fitment — the Knight and Combat lines are riders' favorites on RZR and Ranger builds, in dune, trail and youth sizes. Clean designs, aggressive stances and a brand tied tightly to the Polaris world. Verify /brands/pro-armor slug.
ITP — the value workhorse
ITP has been making off-road wheels for decades and owns the practical end of the catalog. The SS212 and SS112 alloys and the Delta steel wheels are dependable, correctly-fit, affordably-priced wheels for work and trail machines — including OEM-style replacements that just bolt on and go to work. When you want a solid wheel without paying for the show, ITP delivers. Verify /brands/itp slug.
And the deep bench: behind those five we stock Moose (our single deepest wheel catalog — value alloys and steel like the 387X and 399X), plus SandCraft (sand sport wheels), Sedona, QuadBoss, Rough Country steel wheels, No Limit and DragonFire. We also carry the race-and-beadlock names the crawl-and-dune crowd asks for by name. Michael flagged wanting competitor-favorite wheel brands represented — System 3 (1,300 vol "system 3 wheels"), KMC, Hostile, Raceline, Valor, Packard Performance, Metal FX. Confirm which SXSS carries and add /brands/ links + SKUs where sourceable. Browse every wheel brand on the UTV brands page.
Best-Selling UTV Wheels
The wheels our riders actually buy most, spread across beadlock, sport and steel so you can find yours fast. Prices are per wheel unless the listing notes a set.
- Tusk Nebo Beadlock Wheels ($126.47–$162.95) — our best-selling wheel. A true beadlock at a value price, the easy way into low-pressure riding.
- DragonFire RZR SB-3 Machined Beadlock ($240.99–$256.99) — a sharp machined beadlock built for serious low-pressure RZR builds.
- KMC XS129 Holeshot Wheels ($108.00–$117.00) — clean KMC styling at a value price; a rider-favorite sport wheel.
- Tusk Tintic UTV Wheels ($117.47–$234.99) — a great-looking, well-priced cast wheel that fits a huge range of machines.
- ITP Delta Steel Wheel ($62.95–$65.95) — the budget workhorse; toughest dollar-for-dollar wheel we sell.
- Moose 399X Wheel ($105.95–$123.95) — a value alloy from our deepest wheel catalog, correct-fit and clean.
- Fuel Anza Beadlock Wheels ($171.00–$314.00) — the premium look and real bead clamping from the biggest name in the game.
- Method 401 UTV Beadlock ($296.84–$382.00) — race-grade beadlock construction proven in competition.
See all 297 wheels on this page, or filter by your year, make and model in the vehicle selector and you will see only the wheels that fit your machine.
| If you mostly… | Best value | Most popular | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Trail & everyday | KMC XS129 Holeshot | Tusk Tintic / MSA M26 Vibe | Fuel Lethal / Vector |
| Rock & mud (air down) | Tusk Nebo Beadlock | Fuel Anza Beadlock | Method 401 Beadlock |
| Racing / hard desert | MSA beadlock | Method 401 | Forged race beadlock |
| Work / plow rig | ITP Delta steel | Rough Country steel / Moose 399X | ITP SS212 alloy |
| Sand / dunes | Pro Armor Knight Dune | SandCraft sport wheel | Fuel Maverick beadlock |
| Polaris RZR / Ranger build | SuperATV Bandit H-Series | Pro Armor Knight | DragonFire SB-3 Beadlock |
UTV Wheel FAQ
Do I need beadlock wheels?
If you run very low tire pressure regularly for grip — rock crawling or hard mud — yes, a true beadlock keeps the tire from unseating. Racers run them too, for impact resistance at any pressure. For everyday trail and work riding at normal pressure, a standard wheel is lighter, cheaper and all you need.
What bolt pattern does my UTV use?
Most Polaris run 4/156; most Can-Am and many Kawasaki run 4/137; many Honda, Yamaha and Kubota run 4/110. Patterns vary by year and model, so confirm with the vehicle selector or send us your machine and we will verify before you order.
What is wheel offset, and does it matter?
Offset is where the mounting face sits relative to the wheel's centerline, and it sets how far your wheels tuck in or push out. A wider (more negative) offset adds stability and flotation but stresses bearings more and can rub; a tucked (positive) offset is easier on the driveline and keeps the machine narrow. Match it to your tire size and how you ride — we will help you spec it.
What is the difference between a true and a simulated beadlock?
A true beadlock has a bolt-on ring that actually clamps the tire bead so you can air down safely. A simulated beadlock has a cosmetic ring for the look but does not clamp anything. If you air down for grip, buy true; if you just want the look at normal pressure, simulated saves money.
Steel or aluminum wheels — which should I buy?
Steel is toughest for the money and bends rather than cracks, which makes it great for work and plow machines; it is just heavier. Cast aluminum is lighter, corrosion-proof and the mainstream choice for most riders. Flow-formed and forged aluminum are lighter and stronger still for racing, at a premium.
Can I mix and match wheels, or run different front and rear sizes?
Yes, as long as the specs line up — bolt pattern, offset and the tire's rim requirements have to match your machine. Many sport and sand setups intentionally run a narrower front and wider rear. If your specs match, you are good; if you are unsure, ask us.
Do bigger wheels need spacers or adapters?
Not automatically. Spacers widen your stance or add clearance for bigger tires; adapters convert one bolt pattern to another (a common Can-Am-to-Polaris swap). Neither is required just to run a bigger wheel — they solve specific fit and stance goals. Tell us your build and we will say whether you need them.
How do I keep beadlock wheels safe?
Torque the ring bolts to spec in a star pattern, re-check before and after the first ride, then every three to five rides or any time you lose air. Keep the ring and bolts clean of packed mud. Done routinely it is quick, and it is the difference between a beadlock that holds and one that leaks.
Why Buy UTV Wheels From Side By Side Source
We have been the premier online seller of aftermarket UTV parts since 2010, and our ownership team carries well over 100 years of combined powersports experience. Since 2010 we have served more than 1 million powersports customers, shipping out of Appleton, Wisconsin with real USA-based service. We curate the wheel catalog instead of listing everything, so the brands here are the ones we would bolt to our own machines. Every order is backed by a 90-day return policy and a best-price guarantee, shipping is free over $250, and Affirm is available at checkout so you can spread out a full wheel-and-tire build. Our vehicle selector filters the whole catalog to your exact year, make and model, so you never buy a wheel that does not fit — and if you want it done for you, ask about a mounted-and-balanced wheel-and-tire package. Not sure? Text us at 920-644-5280 and a real rider will help you choose before you spend a dollar.