First, the “big number” you need to know: rated capacity. This is how much weight the ramp can safely support, but keep in mind, this is not a number you should be comfortable matching. You should be several hundred pounds below your rating every time you load and unload your machine. In real life, things are messy, meaning your load may shift or be uneven during transport, which is why having this extra buffer is not an optional item.
Your UTV's weight isn't evenly distributed, as most machines have a front-heavy bias, and loaded machines concentrate weight differently. Ramps experience maximum stress when the weight is centered on them (machine halfway up), not at the ends where structural support from trailer and ground help. Angle affects capacity: steeper angles concentrate more weight perpendicular to ramp surfaces, increasing stress. Manufacturers test at specific angles; using ramps steeper than tested reduces safe capacity.
Ramp folding design affects portability and strength. Bi-fold ramps (folding once in the middle) are the most common design, reducing storage length by roughly half. They use robust hinges at fold points that must be designed properly to prevent accidental folding during use. Quality ramps include positive locks, ensuring hinges stay extended.
Tri-fold ramps (folding twice, creating three sections) pack even more compactly, reducing storage length by roughly two-thirds. They're ideal for limited storage space but add complexity. Two hinge points mean more potential failure modes. Solid (non-folding) ramps provide maximum strength and stiffness since there are no hinges compromising structure. The limitation is storage, as 7-8 foot solid ramps require significant space. They make sense for permanent trailer installations or dedicated hauling setups where ramps stay with trailers.
Portability considerations: folding ramps typically weigh 30-60 pounds per pair (aluminum construction), manageable for most people. Carrying handles integrated into designs simplify positioning. Ramps without good handles are frustrating to maneuver.
A straight ramp makes a harsher angle with the ground and trailer deck, which is going to encourage bottoming out for more heavily laden UTVs. If you have a high-clearance machine and/or are loading onto a relatively low surface, you should be fine, but otherwise, keep these limitations of straight UTV ramps in mind.
Arched ramps curve upward in the middle, creating gradual transitions at both ground and trailer deck contact points. The arch smooths angle changes as machines transition from ground to ramp and ramp to deck, dramatically reducing bottoming risk. They're essential for lowered sport UTVs, heavily-loaded work machines sitting compressed on suspension, or any situation where clearance is marginal. Trade-off: arched ramps weigh slightly more and cost more than straight equivalents but provide critical protection for appropriate applications.
Calculating whether you need arched ramps: measure your trailer deck height and your machine's lowest ground clearance point when loaded. If straight ramps would create transition angles exceeding 15-20 degrees, arched designs prevent potential bottoming. For typical 20-24 inch trailer deck heights with machines having 10-12 inches clearance, arched ramps provide valuable insurance.
How long of a ramp will I need?
You want to triple (or quadruple) your loading surface height. So, if your trailer is two feet off the ground, a six or seven-foot ramp is ideal.
Will an ATV ramp work?
It depends. Some ATV ramps are overhyped underperformers (just sayin), so make sure to check the actual weight rating AND make sure your ramp width is more than enough for your UTV wheelbase before attempting to load.
Do I always need a spotter?
While it’s highly preferred, you can still load without one. Take extra time to align yourself first, use a low gear, and once you commit, do not stop until you’re fully onboard.