Different heater types use different heat sources and deliver different levels of performance. 12V heaters are going to be the easiest and cheapest option for you. They're typically small, they pop right in, and will still provide enough heat to take the edge off a frigid morning.
Coolant-based cab heaters simply draw from your engine’s existing cooling system. They can crank out some serious BTUs because they use the engine. They're what you need for genuine cab warming in cold weather, full defrost capability, and all-day comfort in freezing conditions. The trade-offs are cost ($400-800+ for complete systems), installation complexity (plumbing into the cooling system, running hoses, mounting components), and they only work well after your engine warms up; no heat during the first few minutes of riding.
Combination systems use both coolant heat for primary heating once the engine is warm, supplemented by electric heat for instant warmth during cold starts. These give you the best of both worlds but obviously cost more and require more complex installation.
Here's where many riders get surprised: effective heating requires serious electrical power, and not all UTVs can deliver it without upgrades. If you’re already running headlights and one or two other accessories on a stock setup, you might already be tapped out on power. Running high-draw heaters with the engine at idle (when alternator output is lowest) can actually discharge your battery despite the engine running. This is when an alternator upgrade and/or a second battery is clutch.
Coolant-based heaters don't stress electrical systems as much—they mainly need power for the fan motor (typically 5-10 amps), which is way more manageable than electric heating elements. This is another reason coolant heaters work better for all-day heating—they're not constantly drawing massive electrical power. For riders considering electric heaters, calculate your total electrical load (all accessories you run simultaneously) and verify it's within your alternator's continuous output rating.
The best heater in the world won't keep you warm if your cab is leaking heat as fast as the heater produces it. Cab sealing becomes critical once you add heating. You need proper doors with weather stripping, a windshield that seals reasonably well, and enclosure panels that close off major drafts. Trying to heat an open-cab UTV is fighting physics, because you're heating the outdoors rather than the cab.
Coolant heater installation requires you to mount the heater core/fan, get those coolant hoses run, and route your ductwork. These can take several hours to set up, but an electric heater is on in minutes. Many riders start with portable electric heaters to see if supplemental heat is enough, then upgrade to coolant systems if they need more heating capability.
How much heat are we actually talking if I want my cab to be comfortable in winter?
Size and sealing are the two major swing factors here (along with, of course, how cold it is out there), but to provide a rough ballpark, you generally want to have at least 3-4k BTU. If you’ve got a bigger cab and/or if it’s extremely cold, crank that number up a good thousand BTUs or two.
What about my engine cooling? Will a heater mess with that in summer?
Short answer? Nah. Even a coolant-based heater should not significantly affect your cooling if it’s installed correctly. In fact, some heaters can actually help dissipate heat to a small degree when you’re cooling.
Is running the heater with the engine off okay?
Sure, but they definitely can and will drain your battery if you don’t pay attention. We highly recommend not going any more than 10-15 minutes before starting up your machine.